When I first stayed in Sarlat-la-Canéda, I promised myself I wouldn’t spend all day in cafés (though it was tempting). I wanted to explore more of the Dordogne Valley, and Domme and Beynac were at the top of my list. They’re close, easy to reach, and each has its own character. Add a boat ride on the Dordogne River, and you’ve got a full but relaxed day.
Planning your trip? I usually book through Booking.com, you’ll find everything from simple B&Bs to riverside hotels all across the Dordogne.
Here’s how I’d plan it again, what worked, what I’d do differently, and the little things that made it special.
The historic center of Sarlat, a perfect starting point for day trips from Sarlat.
Public transport in this part of France? Let’s say it’s limited. Re nting a car makes day trips from Sarlat easy and flexible. You can stop wherever you want, take scenic detours, and not worry about missing a bus.
Flying into Bergerac? It’s the closest airport to the Dordogne and a great place to start your trip. Compare rental car options at Bergerac Airport here. I usually grab mine right at the terminal and head straight into the countryside.
Tip: Avoid large SUVs; the village streets can be tight.
Driving in Dordogne gives you freedom to explore
Stop 1 – Domme: Hilltop Views and Hidden Caves
Domme was one of the first villages I visited in the Dordogne. I walked through the gate and thought: this is a solid place to start. Built in the 13th century as a fortified bastide, and still in remarkably good shape.
At the centre is a well-preserved covered market with stone columns and a tiled roof. It’s the village’s historic market square and still a central meeting point for both tourists and locals.
In summer, it gets busy, no surprise. But it’s worth it. If you go early, it’s quieter and cooler, which makes a difference if you want to walk around or take in the view.
Behind the square are the official buildings: the Governor’s House, town hall, and tourist office. But what stuck with me was the view. Walk to the edge of the square and the whole Dordogne Valley opens up in front of you. River below, hills in the distance, small villages scattered in between.
What I’d Make Time for
Musée de Domme – A small local history museum. Worth a quick stop if you’re into medieval life.
Esplanade de la Barre – The main viewpoint. Best in late afternoon or sunset.
Grotte de Domme – A short but interesting cave tour right under the square.
With or without a guide You can walk Domme on your own, but if you like context, a short guided tour makes a difference. Book your Domme walking tour here.
If you’re nearby, don’t miss La Roque-Gageac. It’s just down the river from Domme and one of my favorite villages in the Dordogne.
Practical Info – Domme
Opening hours – The tourist office in the square has updated times for caves & museum.
Grotte de Domme – Guided tours, adults €9, kids 5–12 €6.50. Closed in January.
Parking – Paid parking just outside the gates. Best to arrive before 10:00 in summer.
One of the best views in the Dordogne, worth every step.
Stop 2 – Beynac-et-Cazenac: Castle with a River View
It takes about 15 minutes to drive from Domme to Beynac. You’ll see the castle before you even get there, it’s built right into the cliff above the river. It looks impressive, and it is, but just know: you’ll be walking uphill.
Visiting Château de Beynac
The walk up isn’t easy, especially if it’s hot. With small kids, I’d bring a carrier, not a stroller. And always carry water. Once inside, the castle is pretty bare, which actually makes it easier to imagine how it was used. You get an audio guide at the entrance and can walk around on your own.
During the Hundred Years’ War, Beynac was French territory while nearby Castelnaud was in English hands. They literally faced each other across the river. More recently, the castle was used as a film set for The Last Duel.
The View
The view from the battlements is the best part. Castelnaud (once English territory) is right across the river.
Food & Breaks
On the way back down there are plenty of small places to grab something. We stopped for ice cream and sat in the shade, much needed after the climb. Down by the river you’ll also find terraces where you can sit with a drink and watch the boats drift past.
Tickets – Buy them at the entrance, no need to book online.
Opening hours – From 10:00 daily, but check the official website for up-to-date times.
Parking – Paid parking along the road up. In July/August it fills up fast → best to arrive before 9:30.
Best time to go – Late afternoon. The light on the stone walls is beautiful, and it’s usually quieter than midday.
Beynac’s castle sits directly above the river, you can’t mis
Dordogne Boat Ride: The Calm Part of the Day
After a few hours of walking, sitting on a gabarre boat feels like a break. These flat-bottomed boats once carried salt and wine, today they just give you the chance to see the valley from the water instead of the hilltops. What I liked most was seeing the castles from belo, they look even bigger, and the kids loved spotting kayaks and canoes on the river. For me, this was one of the highlights of the day. I like late afternoon best, the light on the villages and the river is beautiful.
Practical Info – Dordogne Boat Ride
Gabarres – Departures from Beynac & La Roque-Gageac, tours 50–60 minutes.
Season – April to October, with more departures in July & August.
Tickets – Buy at the quay. Reserve in high season (especially afternoons).
A peaceful way to end the day
If you’re traveling with kids, the boat ride is often a highlight. Thinking about kayaking instead? Bring a swimsuit and a dry bag. You can stop for a swim or grab a drink at one of the little bars along the riverbank. Those unplanned stops often turn into the best memories.
Canoeing on the Dordogne with Château de Castelnaud in the background
FAQ – Planning Your Day Trip from Sarlat
When is the best time of year to visit Domme and Beynac? Spring and early autumn are ideal, cooler weather, everything is open, and it’s easier to enjoy without the summer rush. If you’re visiting in July or August, go early in the day.
Are Domme and Beynac suitable for kids? Yes, but be prepared for climbing and cobbled streets with strollers. The boat ride is great for kids though, it’s only an hour and they love spotting castles from the river.
Can you visit Domme and Beynac in half a day? You could, if you just do a quick walk and the castle. But honestly, it feels rushed. A full day lets you enjoy lunch, a boat ride, without hurrying from one stop to the next.
Where can you eat in Domme or Beynac? In Domme, avoid the main square cafés, they’re overpriced. A side street bistro is better for local dishes like walnut cake or duck confit. In Beynac, head down by the river for terraces with a view, not fine dining, but perfect for a break after the castle climb.
Is driving in Dordogne difficult? Not really. The roads are small and winding, but traffic is light once you’re outside Sarlat. Just don’t expect big highways, and avoid narrow village streets if you’ve got a big rental car.
How much time do I need? Give yourself a full day if you want to enjoy both villages and a boat ride.
Parking? Organised, but July and August get crazy. Arrive early.
If you’re spending more time in Sarlat itself, don’t miss my guide to Maison de la Boétie, one of the most interesting stops in town. And for practical tips on the water, see my Dordogne River Boat Ride section.
Maison de la Boétie in Sarlat — one of the most photographed Renaissance houses in the Dordogne.
Final Thoughts
If you only have one day for a trip from Sarlat, this is the one I’d do again. Domme for the views and the caves, Beynac for the castle and the river, and a boat ride to finish it off.
It’s a full day, but a relaxed one. You never feel like you’re rushing from place to place.
Plan Your Trip
If you’re planning your own day out, these are the links I use myself:
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